The Fashion Time Magazine

You don’t want to come between a stylish woman or man and their Matt Bernson shoes with their epitomes of a relaxed and effortless chic and sporty well crafted feel…

New York City’s Matt Bernson (left) is the hot new shoe designer every fashionista should know. He designs shoes for Zac Posen and Walter, his fall boots are to die for, and his footwear showcase an exuberance of versatile cool, with just a touch of boho glam.

A Shoe Designer to the Stars, Bernson is an American success story, who has led an interesting life with a career path that took him from travel writer to construction to a propitious journey to India, where he developed a fascination for footwear design, culminating in a full fledged line of designer shoes for women and men.

And fervent acceptance by trend setting stars such as Gisele Bundchen, Sarah Jessica Parker, Kate Hudson, Naomi Watts, Gwen Stefani, Courtney Cox, Hills stars Lauren Conrad and Audrina Patridge, Jessica Alba, Lindsay Lohan, Gossip Girl star Leighton Meester, Ashley Tisdale, Paris Hilton and Nicky Hilton, who have all embraced his designs, smitten with its “cool girl vibe” and throwback to the comfortable, glamorous footwear of yesteryear.

We thank Matt for taking time out from his busy schedule to participate in the Interview, and please visit Matt Bernson.com for more information. Matt Bernson Shoes are available online at Jildorshoes.com, Bizrate.com, Footnotesonline.com, and Barefoottess.com.

Nicky Hilton sporting Matt Bernson sandals

Fashion Time: Matt, you went from working construction in New York City to designing shoes. It’s definitely one of those strange career journeys. How did you make the transition to shoe designer?

Matt Bernson: I had an idea while traveling in India for a sandal using Indian jewelery. This sparked an interest in finding a manufacturer and then led to designing many sandal variations. I had to make the transition out of construction very quickly because things really started to take off. And then it was sink or swim, so I had to figure out how to do technical specs, work out the manufacturing end, all while launching a business. I didn’t sleep much.

Fashion Time: Could you tell us what is involved in the process of making Matt Bernson shoes?

Matt Bernson: Once the first prototype is made, the basic shape of the shoe is determined. Everything is built around the last, or the basic form of a foot. There are endless variations in last shapes, mostly it has to do with the width, toe shape, heel shape, and the vamp angle (the part that covers the instep). We can go over the process of making one pair of sandals. First all of the materials need to be ordered, hopefully they all come in around the same time. We need sole leather, heel rubber, EVA padding for the insole, leather for the insole, the shank (which determines the flex of the sole), the leather for the upper, upper lining leather, and then any trim or ornament details, plus glue and heavy-duty nylon thread. One pair of sandals usually has upwards of 30 suppliers involved. Let’s say everything goes right and all the materials come in on time and correct, here is the process from start to finish (everything happens in unison).

Matt Bernson shoes for Walter and Zac Posen

We buy the cured sole leather, bring it to a finisher where it is buffed and sanded, the rubber heel is applied, and the stamps are applied (size, “Soulfully Made in Brazil”. “genuine leather”). The leather for the upper is specially tanned to match our original sample leather, we have over 50 choices for buyers to choose from, 3 golds, 5 blacks, 5 browns, etc, so it has to be just right. The insole leather is tanned at a special tannery that does vegetable dying. Due to the organic nature of the process we do get variation from batch to batch, from light tan to a darker reddish brown, one might say it is part of the charm of a handmade product. The upper leather along with the lining leather gets cut using patters, much like the pattern for a dress. It is then sent to stitching facility. The upper comes back ready to be put onto the sandal.

The Sole Guy (that’s what I call him - coolest name in the factory) takes the insole, and using a special shoe glue adheres the EVA padding to the vegetable dyed insole leather. Holes are punched in the insole and then the upper is attached using the last. One guy in the factory is in charge of lasting. The upper has to be placed on the insole with perfect execution, too tight and the shoe won’t go on the foot, to loose and it just won’t feel right. The upper and insole are then attached to the leather outsole. The last is kept in the shoe, it is heated, and then cooled so that it forms to contours of the last and set in the correct position. The insole is then heat stamped with the foil emboss logo. The sole edges are stained so that they have a darker finished look, like a wood floor. The sandal then gets waxed, and buffed so that it look shiny and new. Then it moves into quality control, where any minor issue will be touched up. Into a box, onto a plane, into a store, and onto a foot. Voila.

Lindsay Lohan in her favourite pair of Bernsons

Fashion Time: There are no heels in your Spring ‘09 collection? Why?

Matt Bernson: I aim to offer not only sexy shoes but I want them to be comfortable. I feel we have come up with one of the best sandal insoles and soles that is on the market. When I offer heels I want to be able to have the same confidence that they not only look great, but fit well and have unreal comfort. And we have released a wedge recently that I think has these qualities.

Fashion Time: What are your thoughts on the many models falling down on the runways during the recent spring shows. Are fashionable shoes becoming impractical to wear?

Matt Bernson: Models only have to make it a few hundred feet, to the end of the runway and back for the sake of an artists vision. So runway accidents are the result of high concept art coming into contact with a slick runway. I do see that fashionable shoes can be pretty outrageous, this is nothing new, it has been the case for hundreds, if not thousands of years. If you ask the wearer of these shoes, I bet they say it is worth it.

Fashion Time: Who or what inspires you to create a new pair of shoes?

Matt Bernson: So many things inspire new designs. I read every magazine, and look at a lot of fashion history, as I want to know everything going on right now. A lot of detail from apparel and jewelry seems to inspire ideas. I find cool shoes while traveling that I think can be brought into the collection. There are times when I see high heeled shoes that I think would make great sandals. And then there are those ideas that just seem to drift in without warning and I need to just see it. I work in the factory, just making things up, and every once in a while something cool comes out.

Leighton Meester is in love with her Matt Bernson sandals

Fashion Time: What, in your opinion, is the most beautiful shoe silhouette?

Matt Bernson: It is more dependent on the occasion and the wearer. I truly could not pick one, and if I did have to say it would be different tomorrow.

Fashion Time: What styles of shoes from your collection are you offering women this fall?

Matt Bernson: The Moto Boot with triple wrap ankle strap, the Rivington micro wedge boot, and the 434 riding boot with triple wrap ankle strap are the highlights, I think.

Fashion Time: Can we talk about shoe etiquette: when or when not to wear certain types of shoes? Is it permissible to wear satin during the day?

Matt Bernson: I think there are no set rules other than don’t wear a kitten heel with capri pants, it can make even the most toned individual look frumpy. I see women with a stylish point of view that can make anything work. I see no problem with satin during the day as long as it is paired with the correct outfit. I think that jewel tone satin ballet flats will be something of a trend next fall, paired with grey wool pants, you get a nice fall look. Just don’t expect your satin shoes to last too long.

Fashion Time: What are some of the common mistakes that women make when buying and wearing shoes?

Matt Bernson: There seems to be a lot of circumstances where two friends are shopping, and one asks the other if they like their choice, and I don’t always see the most unbiased answers. Not every friend is a free stylist.

Fashion Time: Gladiators were a huge trend last summer, will they continue their stylish appearance for next season?

Matt Bernson: I do see it continuing to be a style that will be quite prevalent.

Fashion Time: Why did the celebrity set embrace your shoes? What is about Matt Bernson shoes that resonates with the Stars?

Matt Bernson: It seems to me that these women in Hollywood are just like the rest of the women out there, they like to find new cool shoes, and if they like them they buy them and wear them. Mine are comfortable, so it makes them easy to wear every day. Notice that you don’t see them on the red carpet…

Audrina Patridge, Courtney Cox, Naomi Watts, Kate Hudson, Jessica Alba - all in Matt Bernson sandals

Fashion Time: Have you had a chance to meet and talk with your star studded clientele? How has the experience been?

Matt Bernson: I have met a few and talked with them. It just blows me away that they know who I am when I do meet them. I am quite easily star struck, so I have learned.

Lauren Conrad shopping for Matt Bernson’s shoes

Fashion Time: 5 must have shoe styles every woman should own?

Matt Bernson: A flip flop, a real sandal, a sleek ballet flat, a black pump, and a rugged boot.

Fashion Time: Which celebrity from the past or present would you like to design  shoes for… and why?

Matt Bernson: I design shoes that I hope my wife will like and get excited about. To me she is a celebrity, and lucky for me she likes my shoes. She owns hundreds of pairs.

Fashion Time: Wedges for men: Are they a do or a don’t?

Matt Bernson: I would say a Don’t. if you do see a guy in a wedge, suggest instead a wedgie…

Fashion Time: What is your attitude to celebs who are launching their own footwear lines?

Matt Bernson: My attitude would be indifference. Original vision is what excites me. I don’t see a lot of this in celebrity lines. Especially if they hire a design team and just throw their name on it. But there are a few that are very involved and you can tell.

Fashion Time: What ONE pair of shoes from your wardrobe would you take from your house or apartment, if a fire happened?

Matt Bernson: Both pairs of my Jack Purcell badminton sneakers, one pair black patent, and one pair white. they are right next to each other so I would make it out alive.

Matt and his dog

Fashion Time: Your thoughts on eco fashion?

Matt Bernson: The initiative is great and ultimately not a choice but a necessity. It is amazing how truly confounding the exercise is though to get it right. There are so many materials that are processed in such a myriad of ways that it can be difficult to figure out which ones are better for the planet. The first step is to try and improve, and as long as you strive to get better as time goes on, then I think that will make a tremendous difference down the road.

Sources: Courtesy of Matt Bernson/People.com